DAY 109- New Orleans to Biloxi...

I woke up early to wonder around the French Quarter.  The only people I saw out were on their way to work, out doing their early morning runs, walking their dogs, or on their way home after a very long night.  The latter group threw me a quizzical look when I cheerfully wished them a good morning.  I think the hangovers were starting to set in.  The streets were wet and later as a street cleaner drove by on another street I saw why.  I think they wash the streets every morning here.  I imagine that otherwise there could be quite the “build-up” on these streets.  Shop owners were also hosing down the sidewalk areas too.

Photos- Cute little houses in the French Quarter of New Orleans.

Photo- The front of the St. Pierre Hotel where I stayed in the French Quarter.

I walked over to the river area and walked along it for a while.  I then decided to be fair and compare Café de Monde’s beignet to the Café Beignet’s beignet.  So I sat at a table and ordered coffee and beignet from a paper hatted woman.  Well, truth be told, I think I like the Café Beignet’s beignet. (Try saying THAT five times fast. Ha!)  But I will say that the view from the Café de Monde is better.

Photo- A foggy misty morning along the Mississippi River near the French Quarter.

 

Photos- Beignets and coffee and below the view from Cafe de Monde of street artists that sale their wares.

 

After a coffee and beignet, I wandered around the French Quarter some more.  I was mostly window shopping; most of the places don’t open until 10AM and I was early by about 2 hours.  I went over to the French Market which is an outdoor open air market.  Some of those vendors were just barely starting to uncover or put out their goods.  I was amazed at how many little restaurants there were where you could get breakfast.   I just wandered around and window shopped.  I also admired some of the houses in the French Quarter.  I had heard the day before that the average home in the French Quarter went for $400 per square foot; very pricey and parking would be a REAL pain. 

Photo- The French Market within the French Quarter where you can pick up all sorts of things.

Photo- The Cornfield Fence Hotel where the original owner had
the fence put in to make his Iowan wife feel more at home in New Orleans.

I eventually wandered into a souvenir shop and got some postcards but couldn’t find a bumper sticker that I liked.  I was hoping to find a bumper sticker that said something unique like…”New Orleans We Put the FUN in Funerals!”  But I didn’t see anything like that but there were tons of Fleur de Lis in either the Saints football team colors or the Mardi Gras colors.  I was disappointed.  There were a lot of good things said on t-shirts but not much for bumper stickers. 

With my big purchase of two postcards, I wandered back to my hotel with about 25 minutes to spare before check out time.  I loaded up the car and then went to the front desk to see about getting my car out of the parking lot.  A hotel employee needed to move his car and then he offered to back my car out for me.  I took him up on that because frankly I suck at backing up.  I gave him and the other guy that did hand signals for him a little tip and I was off.

I drove over to the Garden District of New Orleans.  I just drove through the big houses with the tree lined streets.  It was a wonderful area but I was unsure as to where to park so I just took my time and drove through the area.  It made for a nice late morning drive.

Next, I found I-10 and started heading east towards Biloxi which would be the next stop on my BIG adventure.  I passed the state line announcing that I was now in Mississippi.  Wow!  It’s the first time I had been in this state!  Shortly after that there was a rest stop with a Mississippi Welcome Center.  I decided I would stop and see if I could get a brochure or information about different areas of the state. 

I walked into the center and was immediately welcomed.  There were people taking pictures, singing, dancing, and handing out treats with coffee.  There was a huge hanging sign announcing that Mississippi was showing its southern hospitality.  I walked through all this to a bank of brochures along a wall.  As I was looking at them a gal in a wheel chair asked if she could help me find something in particular.  I talked with her for a bit and she was very helpful.  She even suggested a back way to my hotel that would be more scenic; giving me a map in the process.  I left with brochures and the map; rather looking forward to checking out the area and possibly visiting more of the state.  It was a positive experience which surprised me.

Photo- The beach front about 10 miles south of Biloxi, MS.

Another 15 miles down the road and I found myself driving along a white sandy beach.  I stopped for a bit and just sat on a bench to admire the beach.  It was rather windy and a bit on the chilly side but it was a wonderful view to admire.  I eventually got to my hotel and got checked in.  I went out after a bit and just drove along in the city areas of Gulfport and Biloxi.  There were a few casinos along the shore and it looked like there was an Air force Base nearby.

DAY 108- New Orleans...

The locals pronounce it “NAw Lynnss” and they also talk really fast.  I kept on having them repeat what they were saying.  I guess I had gotten too use to the slow southern drawl they do everywhere else in the south.  I did a bit of exploring before the 10AM cemetery tour.  I wandered onto the low numbered end of Royal St. in the French Quarter and found the Café Beignet that the locals had recommended as having the better beignet than Café de Monde which they called a tourist trap.  While on the way there, I walked past several art galleries that weren’t open yet for the day.  There was some amazing stuff in their windows.  At Café Beignet, I walked to the back counter ordering coffee with a beignet.  I then found a table to sit at.  My coffee was called out and shortly after that my order number was called.  Beignets piled with powdered sugar and I was wearing black capris pants.  Oh, I so did not think this one through!  But it was a yummy and a bit messy experience.



Photo- The entrance to Cemetery Number One where I had my tour.

About 20 minutes before the cemetery tour, I wandered over to where it started.  It ended up being four of us on the tour.  Rene, our tour guide, walked us over a few blocks and started to explain the process and history about burial in New Orleans. The water table being so high created all kinds of problems for burying the dead.  Also, every Spring, it was common to have flooding in the area and bodies would come floating by the houses.  Rene teasingly told the joke that you like talking to your living Aunt at the dinner table but she wasn’t a very good dinner guest dead.   She showed us a section on Burgundy St. where there was an earlier cemetery but now it was a row of houses.  She mentioned a story of where a resident had arranged for a swimming pool to be put in and remains had been unburied.  I guess this whole area had quite a few remains just below the surface.



Photo- Our tour guide Rene showing us the "Oven" style of burial.

Photo- Rene showing us the most famous burial in the cemetery
a VooDoo Mistress called Marie Laveau.

Photo- In the middle area of the cemetery a picture from walking through.

 

We then walked over to Cemetery Number 1.  Rene asked us to be respectful.  It is still an active cemetery, and also not to lean or sit on any of the graves because of the damage that can cause over time.  She went over the different styles of burying that were in the cemetery; showing us as we went along within the walls of the cemetery. She also showed us some of the historic and famous figures in the cemetery.  Then, Rene showed us the backyard area where the Protestants were buried.  It is a Catholic cemetery.  She explain and showed us the difference between restoration and renovation within the cemetery.  Rene also showed us what she considered the eye sores on the cemetery; one of them being a pyramid that Nicholas Cage had built and plans to bury in, and the other is a strange memorial statue.  The tour was very fascinating and enjoyable.  Rene struck the right balance of fun and interesting.  I took both of the tours through a local company called Historic Tours and they give a slight discount if you take more than one with them.

Photo- Nicholas Cage's pyramid-- we were convinced that he purchased because the
IRS is not likely to repo a burial plot.  Though, I would imagine the resale value has some
potential because of where it is.

Next, outside the walls of the cemetery the group of all four of us decided to head out and explore the city.  We walk over to where the trolley cars are.  One of the gals decides to bow out and I ask if it’s okay to still hang out.  I ended up hanging out with a cute adorable middle age couple from Cincinnati, OH.  Steve and Patty were wonderfully easy going and made for enjoyable company for the afternoon.  We jumped on to the trolley car not sure where it went but open to explore.  This was my kind of exploring!  The great thing was its only $3 to ride their bus and trolley cars all day in New Orleans.



Photo- Patty and Steve in front of the Sculpture Garden.

Well, the trolley ended up stopping at a bunch of cemeteries and we already had a tour of one.  One cemetery a day was enough for us.  We back tracked a little and found a restaurant that must have been good because it was crowded.  It was called the Flying Burrito and we only waited about 5 minutes for a table.  We were reviewing maps and discovered if we caught another trolley line we would be close to a sculptural garden and the botanical gardens; that sounded good to me.  Lunch was wonderful and I enjoyed the Flying Burrito which had steak, chicken, and shrimp in a whole wheat tortilla.  Patty’s salad that she ordered looked good and Steve had a burrito too.

Photos- Two pictures of my favorite sculpture in the garden. 
The bottom one is a close up and the bottom human form is about 6 ft tall.

 

Photo- One of the cool sculptures in the garden.

After lunch we waited for a trolley that went north and meanwhile Patty was showing me photos of their swamp tour and a Mardi Gras Parade warehouse that they had explored in the last couple of days they been in New Orleans.  The trolley car arrived and we headed toward the New Orleans City Park which is an end stop.  Off we walked over to the Sculptural Garden which is right next to the New Orleans Museum of Art.  The sculptural garden is free and we got a brochure from the gal at the desk.  It’s a wonderful garden area and there are several acres and areas within it to walk around and enjoy.  It was fun wandering around with Patty and Steve trying to figure out the titles to some of the sculptures and trying to figure out what some of the sculptures were.  We even had a bit of fun with some sculptures that were on benches by mimicking them.

Photo- Patty and Sculpture.

Photo- Steve, now look serious like the statue!  LOL!!

It was sprinkling a bit off and on but we figured we would take our chances and went next to the New Orleans Botanical Garden which was next door to the sculptural garden.  There was a $6 fee to get in and the lady at the desk recommended visiting the Japanese garden area and said that the orchids were in bloom in the conservatory.  We walked through and enjoyed it all.  The Japanese garden was very peaceful and relaxing.  There were vegetable and herb gardens.  There was a train depot like garden with models that represented part of the city of New Orleans which was fun but the train wasn’t running at current.  As we went around they had Christmas lights up and out and it looked like they were getting ready for an event called Cajun Christmas.  There were alligators, Santa, and angels.  We went into the conservatory and saw all of the wonderful orchids in bloom.  It was a wonderful garden to visit.

Photo- The middle of the New Orleans Botantical Garden.

Next, we headed back to the trolley station figuring it was time to head back to the French Quarter.  Patty and Steve were staying on the other side in a hotel by Jackson Square.  As we were waiting we saw another bus go by and go down a street that would be a direct shot to the French Quarter.  Steve got on the phone and called the RTA(the New Orleans Transit) phone to find out where it went.  Well, it was a direct shot back to the hotel and it came every 30 minutes.  We were up for a different way to go back and we waited until the next one came.  We got to see a different landscape on the way back.  Brightly painted houses and neighborhoods but we did see one or two houses with an X on them.  There were still signs that the city was still recovering from Hurricane Katrina.  We arrived in the French Quarter and I gave Patty a hug and thanked them for letting me hang out with them for the day.  It was fun having someone else to do a little sightseeing with. 

I took a shower and decided to have dinner at the famous Gumbo Shop in the French Quarter which was just off of Royal Street.  I walked into the Gumbo Shop and there was a line.  Well, it turns out there was a big group of 17 waiting to be seated together.  I cut right to the front and the hostess asked if by the kitchen was okay.  Sure; I told her I was easy; how couldn’t I be in the big easy?  She must have heard that one before she just smiled and sat me.  I had planned on having their gumbo which they are famous for but I ended up having a combination plate instead which had crab estouffee, jambalaya, and another rice dish that had chicken and shrimp in it.  The server talked so fast I just agreed and said that would be fine.  I also didn’t have to wait as long as those that ordered gumbo.  The gumbo was taking a while and I already had my meal before a table next to me that sat earlier than me.  It was good stuff too and I had a local brewed beer with it.  Don’t ask me the name of the brew because I could barely understand the server with his accent.  I just took a chance and hoped I would like it and I did.  After dinner, I slowly wandered back to my hotel and I was ready to call it an early day.  My feet were hurting a bit from all the walking I did earlier.

DAY 107- The Old, New & Vampires…

I woke up to the sound of water all round me.  It was pouring rain outside, the person in the next room was using in the shower, and I could hear the fountain in the hotel’s atrium.  Is it any wonder that I rushed to the bathroom the first thing in the morning?  I asked the hotel clerk for directions to the Louisiana State Capital that’s located in Baton Rouge.  I teased her that she wouldn’t have to give me directions to come back.  She could send me off never to return.  I think she wondered if she should be laughing or not.

Photo- The outside of the tallest State Capital Building.

I found my way with her directions to the State Capital but to tell you the truth it was hard not to miss the building because it was one of the tallest in the area.  At 450 ft. tall and 34 floors it is the tallest State Capital in the US.  It also has quite a history.  It was finished in March 1932 and it took quite a powerful legislator to get it built during the height of the Great Depression.  That same powerful governor was also assassinated in the building a few years later. Huey P. Long is buried on the grounds and his statue looks towards the building.  Louisiana has quite the interesting political history; as I found out later on when I went to see the Old State Capital.

Photo- Inside the Senate Chambers of the Louisiana Capital.

But first I explored the New Louisiana State Capital.  I went through the areas on the 1^st floor and explored what was open.  The building is currently undergoing some major renovations and quite a bit of it was closed because of the work being done.  I then rode the elevator up to the 24^th floor with 5 construction guys up the elevator which I had to laugh I was the only one to hit a floor button.  They were just along for the ride and one of them complimented me on my purse.  It made me wonder if the construction work was a “bit” behind. 

Photo- The foggy and rainy view I had from the 27th floor.

When I got up to the 24^th floor I walked across the landing area and got on a smaller elevator that took me to the 27^th floor where there’s a gift shop and an observation deck.  It was still rainy out but I went out onto the deck anyway.  I had to see the view and I imagine on a clear day it would have been beautiful.  But even with clouds and rain, it was a pretty view.  The security guard looked at me strange that I had actually gone out in that weather but it was in the mid-70’s and rainy.  I thought it was rather refreshing.

Photo- Louisiana's Old State Capital-- A Castle!

Next, I walked in the rain 6 blocks to the Old State Capital.  I never saw a picture of Old Capital and I had expected a domed creation of some sort but I ended up standing in front of a castle.  I walked in and wow!  There were black and white checked floors, beautiful wood, and stained glass.  I talked with the gals at the information desk and found about the ghost movie.  I went into the gift shop to pay for that and then met her and a married couple that also paid for the movie.  It was a fun, cool experience and I don’t want to give anything more away but it’s very worth the $3.  It did cover some of the amazing interesting history of the old building and how it was able to make a comeback twice in its long history. 

Photo- The view as you go in the door at the Old Capital.

After the movie, I explored around the beautiful old Capital building.  The first floor had a history of how Louisiana came to be a state.  It was very interesting because there was even a bust of Napoleon Bonaparte.  In another area on the first floor, there’s an area dedicated to the famous Huey P. Long former governor and state senator.  It was an interesting way of talking about the man.  There was a section that was pro- Huey and another section that was anti- Huey.   I had never seen such a history of an historical figure before.  Most times you get the good and that’s all.  But this showed him from both sides and then showed the assignation from two different theories too. 

Photo- WOW! The amazing stained glass area just above the second floor!

On the second floor up the spiral staircase, there are pictures along the walls of the former governors.  Above those is the arched stain glass area which is just amazing to behold.  Also, on the second floor were two large room areas that looked like they were ready for Christmas events.  There was another room where there were bridal photos that were taken within the Old Capital building.  That would be amazing to have a wedding in such a venue. 

I walked back to my car in the rain.  Yes, it was still raining and it was supposed to be over by noon according to the local weatherman.  But I guess that Mother Nature had other plans.  I got onto the interstate and headed east to New Orleans.  The first 20 miles was solid traffic as it went through a construction zone but as I came to the town of Iowa, LA the roads cleared up some.  Yes, there’s an Iowa in the state of Louisiana.  I just had to stop and check it out being that I grew up in Iowa.  There wasn’t much but it made for a good stop for gas and a break from the traffic.

Next, it was on to New Orleans, LA and I reserved a place down in the French Quarter to stay for a couple of nights.  When I got to New Orleans, I stopped at the Visitor’s Center just outside of the French Quarter.  I talked with a woman with a very heavy Cajun-French accent and she gave me directions to my hotel.  I found my little hotel about 6 blocks away on Burgundy Street.  I got checked in and while I was checking in I also got signed up for the Vampire Tour that night and a Cemetery Tour the next morning.  I then asked where a good place to eat for the night.  I was directed to Deanie’s and was told to tell them that John, the front desk clerk’s name, had sent me.  All of New Orleans’s tourist business seems to be based on a referral system.

Photo- Deanie's where I had dinner my first night in the French Quarter of New Orleans.

I found Deanie’s, which the hotel clerk had pronounced Deedee’s, and had a wonderful small seafood pizza and a large version of a Long Island Ice tea.  It was while I was having my dinner that three Louisiana State Police walk in and check out the establishment’s liquor lisc.  It was interesting seeing them in their blue polo shirts and tan pants with guns strapped at their waist.  All this to verify a liquor lisc?  It seemed a bit much but the manager showed up and things proceeded smoothly.

I walked back to my hotel.  I still had time to blow before the Vampire Tour and thought I might check out a local bar.  John, at the desk, referred me to a place just down the street about 3 blocks.  He said that it would mainly be locals and no real tourists because it was on the edge of the French Quarter.  I walked in and was greeted by a local’s dog that was still in the friendly puppy stage.  I sat down and ended up started a conversation with a couple of friends that have lived in the area for a while(Andrew and Stephanie).  I got the inside scoop on the beignets and learned that the bars never really closed down here.  The locals take their time with the drinking.  I also learned that you can carry out of the bar as long as it is in plastic.

Photo- Part of the French Quarter at night.

Shortly after that I was carrying what was left of my beer over to the start of the Vampire Tour.  There was a good group of about 15 people; all tourists on the tour.  We were told about the history of the area and the possibilities of vampires by some of the things that happened in the past in the area as we walked along in the French Quarter.  Our guide stopped and pointed out buildings that were in a movie or had some kind of questionable vampire history.  I think it was exaggerated but it was all in good fun.   

We stopped towards the middle of the tour for a quick drink and bathroom drink at a local bar on the tour route.  I’m sure that the tour guide got a kick back for this.  And again at the end of the tour it was ended at another bar.  Be sure to have plenty of cash on hand when you are in New Orleans because some of the bars only take cash but there’s always an ATM nearby with an extra fee to be paid.