DAY 84- Taos...

When I left Santa Fe, I just happened to choose a road at random that was heading in the general direction that I needed to go.  I know crazy, huh?  But Taos is less than two hour’s drive away from Santa Fe and I had some time to explore.  I chose Bishop’s Lodge Road and just drove.  I drove through rounded hills covered with brush and short juniper trees where adobe houses would peak out here and there from the landscape.  It was like the houses were made to fit in with the landscape and it was very scenic.  I made a little contest to pick out as many as I could as I went along.

Photo- Houses hidden in the landscape north of Santa Fe.

Eventually, I came to small communities where there were adobe fences and rough wooden tree fences lining the road.  I imagine that two weeks earlier the barren tree branches hanging over the fences would have been filled with glorious Fall colors.  There were still some of the stubborn leaves hanging on.  Bishop’s Lodge Road came out along the Hwy 285 that I needed to take north to Taos.  I wasn’t choosing the straightest path but then when have I ever done that.

Photo- A variety of fences along the road.

I drove north through the small towns of Espanola and San Juan.  The Hwy started to turn into a northeastern direction towards Taos and I was driving through part of the beautiful Rio Grande Gorge area.  I stopped to take pictures and enjoy the scenery.  The Hwy was also climbing quite a bit.  Just before I got to Taos the road descended.   The scenery opened up and there was a rest stop on the side of the road.  It was amazing.  I could see the snowcapped mountains above Taos and off to the west I could see part of the Rio River Gorge.

Photo- The Rio Grande River Gorge Area.

Driving into Taos, there were more adobe houses and businesses along the road.  I drove north through the center of town and past my hotel.  It was too early to check in and I thought I might just drive around and check out the area.  Then, I saw the sign just ¼ mile up the road from my hotel—Taos Pueblo.  I followed the signs.  I left my camera and cell phone in the car.  I had read that they didn’t allow photos without permission and/or paying a fee.  I just figured I would forgo the hassle all together.

I walked through a gate that had a sign stating the next tour was in 2 minutes at the church.  I walked through an alley way between adobe buildings into a large wide open area.  Off to my right was a church with a walled courtyard.  I walked through the courtyard arch and into the church.  My watch must have been off because the tour was already starting.  I sat down in a pew and listened to a young college aged Pueblo male talk about the symbolism and importance of different things in the church.  He told of the history of the church and that this was not the original church.  The first one had burned down but some of the figures are saved from the first church.

Next, we were led out of the church between some adobe homes and over to the cemetery where there were ruins of the old church.  He explained how all of the crosses in the cemetery had a first and last name on them.  He told how his people had adopted this from their Catholic Christianity and that originally his people only had one name.  The church had burnt down in a rebellion with the Spanish. 

He told of a horrific story of his people being trapped in the church and it was set on fire by the Spanish.  Then the Spanish stood with armed guns outside the only door to the church. There was only one woman that had survived and she had run out of the church that was on fire, through the gun fire, and hid in another building to the north.  She had saved one of the Mary figures from the old church.

Next, he led us our tour group over to an adobe oven which he went into detail about how it worked and when it was primarily used.  He also explained about how currently there was only about 50 people that were living in the pueblo area; most of the other 2800 Indians were living on the reservation outside the pueblo walls.  Most of those members that were living in the pueblo would go outside the walls to shower and bath, but that there were some propane that was used for lighting and heating. 

He lead us back over to the square area and over along the river that runs through the middle of the pueblo.  He explained that you could drink from the stream because it’s so clean.  They own all the land up to the top of the mountains and nothing is developed to contaminate the area.  He mentioned some of the ceremonies and festivals that took place along the river and within the pueblo.  It was all very interesting.  After the tour he invited everyone to stay and visit any of the adobe houses that had an open sign next to their doors.  Those were the homes that had businesses. 

I walked across the square over to a table and looked at some goods as a white middle aged female asked the vendor about the symbolism on a piece with art work on it.  There was jewelry on display on too.  I continued on and ended up following a group of visitors into another house.  Along one wall of the house was a bragging wall would be the only description I could come up with.  There were pictures of family members with Hollywood stars and other famous people that had visited the pueblo.  I looked at the prices of some of the artwork and jewelry; and I understood the bragging wall.  But there was a small little isquare.com sign where they could take a credit card too if you didn’t happen to have the hundred bills on you.

I followed the group to the next house and another.  It was the same story over and over; high priced pieces and one of them even had a laptop computer with a HUGE battery backup with a cup of Starbucks coffee sitting next to it.  She told one lady how she was addicted to Starbucks and gave directions as to where it was in Taos.  I was disappointed with the whole thing.  What was the point of no electricity and what not within the pueblo when all of these outside things were brought in?  I’m not sure what I had been expecting but I just thought that they would be a little more traditional within the pueblo walls.  I wasn’t expecting them to be running around in buckskin clothing but I just thought that it would be different.

Photo- The Rio Grande Gorge as seen from the bridge that spans it.

Next, I went northwest out of Taos and across the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge; now THIS was amazing!  I drove into the rest stop immediately off to the west of the bridge and got out.  I hiked over to the fence area and took pictures of the gorge.  Then, I walked along a sidewalk and across a rough worn dirt path to the highway area.  I walked along the sidewalk of the bridge out to the middle where there was a viewing area.  I tried not to look straight down or I would have gotten dizzy and it WAS a ways down.  The river only looked to be a few feet wide from the view up top but I’m sure it was further than that across.  What a view!  Vendors were set up along the road in front of the rest stop.  You could buy jewelry, hats, leather goods, and drums.  There was even an old colored bus that sold coffee and ice-cream.  Capitalism is very much alive in New Mexico!

I swung back into Taos, past my hotel again (still too early to check in) in search of a nail place.  I was in bad need of a mani-pedi.  The polish was worn off, torn nails, and rough heels; need I say more? I found a small place called Star Nails in a strip mall.  There were only two people and I ended up with the untalkative man.  I asked him about Taos and he said he had only two words to describe Taos… Small Town!  That kept me laughing for a bit. 

I checked into my hotel clad in the cheap paper like thongs because my toe nails had to dry still.  The hotel clerked looked at me a bit strange.  I told her I just treated myself to a mani-pedi and she said she was hoping so but didn’t want to say anything because she’s always seeing some strange stuff going on in the area.

Next I decided to do to a local bar called the Adobe Bar in Taos’ Historic Inn.  I showed up and there was live music going on.  The place was packed but I still managed to find a table.  I watched the football game from my table and the live music too.  This was cool!  It turns out that every Monday night is Open Mike night at the Abode Bar.  The area certainly has a lot of musical talent.  There were even a couple of standups too; one was a little boy about 7 or 8 years old that had to tell some jokes before bedtime.  It was too adorable!  I lost interest in the football game and moved over closer to the stage area.

The whole time I was getting checked out by several men.  I had one offer to buy me a drink and I told him I was just drinking ice water.  He came back with a fresh glass of ice water for me.  My glass was refilled twice without asking by the same man.  A musician had packed up his gear and was heading out.  He stopped, put his gear off to the side, and stood right next to me; almost leaning on me.    

Photo- The final song of Open Mike Night at Adobe Bar in the Taos Historic Inn.

He started talking and I asked questions about the Open Mike night.  Mark was giving me the full court press as far as hitting on me.  I had to laugh and teased him about if he had already gone through the local girls in town; Taos being a small town and all, and now he was hitting on the visiting girls. No, he claimed that was not the case.  But he said that me being a visiting girl was a bit of an aphrodisiac.  Note to you men out there— there are better lines for picking up a female.   I thanked him but told him I wasn’t interested.  He continued to be a bit persistent.  I agreed to put him in my blog in return I was hoping that he would keep his hands to himself.  I shot Mark down again and left as the Open Mike came to a close.  But Mark here’s the picture you took…

Photo- Myself and Mark.

DAY 83- Art & in the Pursuit Of Warm Clothes...

I woke up to a thin layer of snow in the morning.  The weather reports had said there was supposed to be snow in Santa Fe on Sunday but I was still surprised it happened.  I put on my warmest clothes so I could go to breakfast; it was a very chilly walk across that parking lot.  On the way back I stopped at my car and dug around in my cycling gear bag.  Thank goodness, I had the cold gear in with my cycling stuff or I would’ve really been up the creek.

Photo- A church not far from the Georgia O'Keeffe Art Museum.

An hour later I was taking the shuttle bus from the hotel over to Santa Fe’s Plaza.  From there, I walked over to the Georgia O’Keeffe Art Museum.  I should say that I walked around it and finally found it.  It’s rather an understated adobe structure and doesn’t come off as the usual art museum.  I went in and paid the entry fee; the whole time my teeth are chattering.  The gal behind the counter said I looked pretty cold and if she had an extra jacket she would’ve given to me.  She mentioned that the man in the red shirt would be giving a talk on Georgia O’Keeffe at 10:30AM.  She also went on to say that no photos within the museum were allowed.  I went over to the man in the red shirt and asked him where the talk would take place.  He said in gallery No.7 at 10:30am.  He told me it was the largest gallery and pointed the general direction of where it was.

Photo- The understated outside of the Art Museum. I almost walked right by.

I was off to start viewing some of the museum before the talk.  The first room had quotes and a few well-spaced pieces of Georgia’s.  Most people walk right up to a painting or a piece of art.  I have the habit of looking briefly up close then stare at it from a distance.  It was rather interesting because it seemed like the security was keeping a close eye on me because of my out of norm behavior.  There was security in every room.  In the second gallery was where more art was displayed and there was a tour of some sort being given.  I continued my same pace and just went around the group; only half listening to what the female tour guide was saying.  I finally started to warm up and took off my jacket; being watched closely by the security staff.

I breezed through the third gallery and didn’t venture into the 4^th.  I went straight to the 7^th gallery room where the man in the red shirt had just barely started the talk.  I found a sit among the other listeners.  He talked about Georgia’s upbringing, her schooling in art, how she became a teacher, gave up on art for a while and then picked up art again in her life.  He also talked about her husband and how she eventually came out to live in New Mexico.  He talked about her being on the cutting edge of modernism in art.  How this museum is the only museum in the US that is focused on a female artist but that over half of the artists in this day and age are women.  I found it all very fascinating.

But I especially found it fascinating when the man in the red shirt talked about how Georgia was very independent and traveled alone going for days on end in her car in search of subjects that interested her.  People thought she was crazy and I have to say that even a woman in our time has that same bit of stigma from some people.  I very much felt a kin to Georgia in that moment. 

When I left the museum, the man in the red shirt was out front and he asked me what I thought.  I told him it was a wonderful museum and experience.  He said that’s why he committed himself to being a docent since 2006.  I thanked him for his talk and said that I sort of felt a kin to Georgia when he talked about her travels alone.  I told him I was on a long road trip and told him that it was 83.  Wow! He said now that’s a serious road trip.  He said to enjoy and be careful of Santa Fe’s sidewalks.  He was convinced that they were there long before the city was ever built.  I laughed and thanked him; some of them are in terrible shape.

Photo-The Chuck Jones Gallery.

Next, I was down and around the corner and saw a Chuck Jones Animation Art Gallery.  I went in and was greeted warmly by a tall black dreadlock haired man behind a desk.  He asked how I was and I said Cold.  He laughed and said he appreciated my honesty.  I laughed and said maybe I should stop there.  The gallery was pretty cool.  There’s art from Warner Brother’s Daffy Duck, Bugs Bunny, and others.  There’s Dr. Seuss artwork too.  Quite a bit of it was numbered reproductions of the originals done by Chuck Jones.

Photo- Another gallery that I really liked in the area.

Down the street a little farther, I came across another gallery that sparked my interest.  It had sculptures of cougars on benches in front of its windows.  I went in and saw quite a wide range of styles and types of artwork.  I grabbed some of the cards for some of the artists that I like what they do.  Three out of the four artist’s cards I took were all self-taught artists with no BFA.  Wow!  That surprised me because most the time in Utah I’ve found quite often the opposite.

Photo- A layer of snow in the New Mexico Museum of Art.

Further down the street is the New Mexico Museum of Art.  I went in.  After paying the entrance fee, I’m directed out through an open courtyard area to the actual art museum.  Through the courtyard I walked and through another set of doors into a foyer area.  I decided to keep right.  The first segment is large more modern type art fixtures that I never seem to understand or get for the most part.  Then, the art museum takes a venture into “Scenes Seldom Seen” and features a couple of photos with Georgia O'Keeffe in them and one taken by her.  Then, there was also a painting that is done by her too.  It also features other well-known New Mexico artists but I don’t recognize any of them.  Upstairs there was a show on glass that was very interesting.  Back down the stairs I went and turned left this time.  This area talked about New Mexico’s art history and asked about what art is and who is determined to be classified as an artist which this area contained more art that I just didn’t get.

Photo- The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi.

Next I walked around the square and ended up over by the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi.  It looked as though it was being refurbished.  So I just admired the beautiful outside of it for a bit.  Then, I walked over to the Chapel of Loretto and saw the Miraculous Staircase.  The all wooden stairs that was built by a carpenter for the nuns to get to the choir loft which contains no nails.  The stairs were wonderful wood but the chapel area itself was beautiful too I thought. 

Photos- The amazing Miraculous Stairs and the beautiful chapel.

I grabbed a bit of lunch and something warm to drink at the Blue Corn Café.  Then, I went through a couple of gift shops while burning time till the shuttle bus came; about another 15min.  I had had enough of this walking around in the cold weather.  I needed to see about getting some warmer clothing.  The gal that drove the shuttle told me where some stores were on the way back to the hotel and when I got back I jumped in my car in search of warm clothing.  I ended up at Kohl’s and purchased a turtle neck sweater, a fleece hooded jacket lined with Sherpa fur, a sweater cardigan, and another long sleeve shirt.  I figured that should do me and it only set me back about $80.  You gotta love Kohls!

Next, back at the hotel I put on warm clothes in preparation of going out for dinner.  The Cow Girl Restaurant had come highly recommended.  I parked my car and went in only to find that they had a large group had reserved much of the restaurant and the bar area was packed with customers and more customers waiting to sit.  The gal offered that I could get take out but I didn’t want to sit in my hotel room and eat.  I swung by three others that were on my list but they were closed on Sundays.  I felt a bit like I was in Utah.  A bit disappointed, I finally decided to go to a chain restaurant (Outback) that I saw earlier when I was at  Kohls. 

DAY 81 & 82- Balloons & 7200 Feet...

DAY 81- International Balloon Museum
It was cloudy and cold when I left the hotel.  I headed a few exits north and arrived at the International Balloon Museum where I paid a $4 entrance fee.  There’s a $1 break for New Mexican’s.  I got to learn about the history of hot air ballooning.  It all started with two wealthy brothers and King Louis XVI in 1783 when a duck, a sheep, and a rooster were put into flight.  Yeah, it kind of sounds like a punch line to a joke.  The brothers were sons of a wealthy newspaper man and one day observed what smoke did to the papers.  Little did they realize yet that it was the differences in the temperature of the air and not the smoke.  The first balloons were made of paper and usual there were two in the balloon one to fly it by stoking the flames and the other was on hand whose job it was to make sure the balloon didn’t catch on fire. 

Photo- Some of the history of hot air ballooning.

From there the ideas and competition progressed to the first flight across the English Channel and then the first crossing of the Atlantic Ocean that happened on August 17, 1978.  In the Victorian era, the balloon was used often as a form of entertainment.  In fact, often woman were falling out of the air in feats of entertainment with primitive forms of parachutes.  In 1981, the first balloon flight across the Pacific took place going from Japan to the US.  In fact, the Double Eagle V’s actual “basket” was at the museum. 

Photo- Me taking a photo op.

I was surprised to learn that balloons were used in war.  There was an actual “envelop” (the hot air holding part of the balloon) from a Fugo Hot Air Balloon that was used by the Japanese during World War 2.  These balloons were launched from Japan in WW2 to be floated into the US in the hopes of starting forest fires.  Fortunately, they were launched at a time of year when it was winter in the US and no actual fires were started.  However, there was one that was one that did go off and kill part of a family.  There’s a memorial to that family in Blythe, OR. 

Photo- Double Eagle V "baskt" that made the Pacfic Ocean flight in 1981.

There was an area for a balloon school where they had a simulator to teach new balloonists.  I had to give it a try.  I was really surprised how I did.  I scored 72.8 out of 100.  But no this will not be a new hobby for me; I’m WAY to afraid of heights to ever consider entering into this field.  It was fun though, giving it a try.

Photo- El Pinto restaurant.

When I left the balloon museum, there was rain going sideways.  I went back in and asked the guy at the counter about a place nearby to grab lunch and maybe wait out the rain.  He gave me directions to a place called El Pinto.  I had to laugh a bit when he told me this.  El Pinto was the other restaurant that the hotel clerk had recommended.  It was like everyone was working off of the same list; a restaurant conspiracy?  El Pinto was a bit out of the way and very local.  In fact, I drove by it the first time.  It’s rather back and in away from the road and has an understated sign out by the road. 

I walked in and felt under dressed as all of the servers were dressed in white dress shirts and black pants; then there were the woman in designer dresses.  Oh, but wait there were some guys in jeans and cowboy hats.  Never mind, I was safe.  I ordered a stuffed sopapilla with chicken and I was disappointed after Sadie’s a couple n nights ago.  This place’s stuffed sopapilla was fresher with lettuce, tomato, and a bit of unmelted cheese.  I sat near the bar which was a wonderful room and I loved some of the art they had on the wall.  In fact, there was this modern painting of a dog that I would’ve loved to have owned.

The sun had started to try to peak out of the clouds when I left El Pinto.  I drove north on I-25 to Santa Fe which is about a drive of 35 miles.  The drive was rainy off and on.  The highway was climbing quite a bit of the way.  It was not quite about 5 when I got checked into the hotel.

I dropped off my things at my room and then took the hotel shuttle down to the Plaza the Santa Fe downtown area.  I wandered around the plaza area for a while but it appeared most of the places were closing at 6pm.  As places closed down I went in search of some place to eat.  I stumbled onto the Ore House; one of the places that had been recommended to me.  I found a place at the bar and ordered.  I had a bowl of green chili stew which was wonderful but decided to also order a hamburger which one of the guys at the bar said was THE best. 

Photo- Some wonderful architecture in Santa Fe's Plaza area.

I struck up a conversation with this guy and his girlfriend.  He had to be at work and I was still in conversation with her.  The next thing I know her and I are bar hopping in Santa Fe.  It was so much fun and all I had to worry about was making sure to get back to the corner of the plaza to catch the last shuttle at 9:10PM.  Well, my new friend said not to worry because the hotel that I was staying at was on the way home for hr. and her boyfriend.  Her boyfriend actually joined us at the 2^nd bar having finished what he needed to do at work.  We visited what they called the “Bar Triangle” of Santa Fe.  The 3 bars were the Ore House, the Matador, and Evangelo’s.   It all worked out great.  At about midnight her boyfriend gave me a ride back to the hotel and then swung over to his girlfriend’s.

Photo- The sign inside at Evangelo's Bar.  A common sign inside the bars in Santa Fe
was that they only took cash but this one took it a bit farther.

DAY 82- 7200 Ft…

I woke up at 6:30AM to a cold gray morning.  I had drank a whole lot of water the night before I went to bed; no hangover this time.  But I felt like I had a weight on my chest.  I was finding it a bit hard to breathe.  I threw on some clothes and went down for breakfast hoping maybe a hot meal with coffee would make the difference.  It didn’t.  I just felt run down and wiped out of energy.  I made a couple of phone calls.  My Aunty Lindy made the suggestion that it might be the elevation combined with a storm system that was going on in Santa Fe.  Could it be that my body was not adjusting to the 7200ft. elevation of Santa Fe? 

I decided to make it a day off.  I went out once to grab something to eat but otherwise hung out in my hotel room.  I watched TV and did a bit of surfing on the internet.  I just took it easy.  I was hoping that a day of rest and allowing my body to adjust to the elevation was all that I needed to do.