DAY 113- Hay, Harriet, & Molly’s…

It was still raining when I got up in Macon, GA.  I was a bit disappointed because I had hoped to visit the Ocmulgee National Monument which is a preservation of southeastern Native American culture.  I guess it has an earth lodge and burial mounds on site but with the rainy weather some of it would be closed.  I also was considering stopping by Noah’s Ark Animal Sanctuary in Locust, GA which would have been on my way to Atlanta but that was open only when weather was permitting.   Rainy weather in this case was not a good thing and I needed to find stuff I could do inside.  I got my computer on-line after grabbing breakfast and did some searching.

Photo- Hay House from the front street area.

That’s where I found a place called the Hay House.  It had some good reviews.  I googled the address for it and also got the address and directions for a Harriet Tubman Museum nearby too.  I figured between those two, I could fill a few hours before I needed to drive on to Atlanta, GA for the night.

I pulled up to the house and I have to admit that the on-line pictures didn’t do it justice.  It was a beautiful old Italian Renaissance house on a well sculptured landscaped corner lot.  I parked across the street and saw a sign that said for tours enter through the back entrance.  I walked around to the back door.  I walked in and told them I was interested in a tour.  I got a bit of a discount with my AAA and I was introduced to my lovely tour guide.  She had a good friend that moved to Utah recently and we started talking.  It was more like taking a tour with a good friend and it was rather fun; it was just myself and the tour guide.

My tour guide took me into a room in the basement where she told me the history of the Hay House.  The house was built by Mr. William Butler Johnston who was a wealthy retired man in his 40’s and his new bride in her 20’s.  They had gone on a 3 year honeymoon trip in Europe and came back to Macon inspired to build a house.   The building of the house started in 1855 and was finished up in 1859; this occurred during the Civil War.  It took a bit longer because there weren’t many craftsmen available to build houses; most of them had volunteered to go off to war.  But when it was finished it was referred to as the “Palace of the South”. 

The house passed on through to further generations of the family until it became too large and expensive to up keep.  Then, it was sold in 1926 to the wealthy Mr. Hay who was a founder of a bank and life insurance company.  In 1977, it was donated by Hay family descendants to the Georgia Trust Historic Preservation where eventually it was designated as a National Historic Landmark.   Which all I can say is that’s a very good thing because this house was amazing!

Photo- The front door area of the Hay House.

From the basement, I went out a side door and my tour guide let me in from the front door where the porch had an amazing design that I didn’t see when I went around to the back.  The front doors were 12 ft. tall and 5 inches thick carved wood.  I walked in through them and my breath was taken away!  Carved painted wood, molded plaster, faux bois (painted wood graining), and hand painted friezes, etched glass, and painted areas that looked amazingly like marble.  I was in awe!  The tour guide kind of chuckled at me but I was speechless.  It amazed me that all this high level of craftsmanship took place in a time when it was done with hand tools; I could really understand why it was called “The Palace of the South” because it was and still maybe is. 

We went from room to room; while my tour guide pointed out different aspects and nuances of the house.  There was a Christmas luncheon being served in a large downstairs room and we jumped ahead a bit to get those areas before they were filled.  She talked and showed things that were restored or made to look like the original.  She explained some of the ventilation and planning behind the house’s layout.  I got to see one of the first ever elevators that were installed into a house in the US.  Though, this one was more designed with the idea transporting kohl and ash between the floors than people. 

Then, we went upstairs and I got to see where efforts were still being made on the second for restoration.  It was a little rougher up here and simpler but even then I saw the possibilities of it all.  We went through the second floor and then down the backstairs to the basement into the kitchen area.  She showed me the speaker tubes that were used to call servants and explained how they worked.  There was a drawing and an open floor area that showed some of the heating and cooling that were used for the house.  That was the end of the tour but I ended up chatting with the tour guide for a while until another group showed up for a tour.  Unfortunately, they do not allow photography to be taken inside of the home.  However, I did take a few of the outside afterwards.

Photo- The wall murals in the first room at the Tubman African American Museum.

Next, I drove over to the Tubman African American Museum.  I paid the entrance fee and then the layout of the museum was explained to me.  This museum has been in existence since 1981 and since then it has been preserving, collecting, and exhibiting works of art and historical artifacts of the African American culture.  It is the largest museum in the southeast dedicated to African American history, art, and culture in the US.  It was named in honor of Harriet Tubman who is described as a “Black Moses” for leading slaves to freedom and serving as a Union spy, nurse, during the Civil War.

The museum starts with a room full of colorful painted wall murals which feature Africans throughout history.  Harriet Tubman is featured prominently in one of them.  As you turn the corner there’s an area dedicated to Harriet Tubman with photos, documents, newspaper articles, and even a wanted posted stating a reward for her capture during the Civil War.  Next you enter into an exhibit hall area.  At current they were exhibiting Mr. Imagination’s artwork.  He was born in Chicago under the name of Gregory Warmack and he uses cast off objects in his art.  He is best known for using bottle caps in his artwork.  I guess you could almost say he was the father of now what we call recycled art.

In the next room, the museum shows more current art African American art from local Georgia artists.  There was one piece I liked in particular called I’d Rather Two-Step Than Waltz, Step Three.  The mixed media features two figures of a young girl and boy in a dancing pose with other object surrounding them.  It was just a fascinating piece.  Then, the museum went on to show Folk Art and explained what it is and why it is important to a culture.  Next was the Inventors Gallery and had a sampling of what inventions came from the minds of African Americans.  It was amazing to see the inventions; some of which get used in our everyday life.   

Photo- The Inventors Gallery.

 

From there, I climbed upstairs to a second floor where there more African American art and a film that’s playing.  The film is based on the true life story of two slaves that escaped the Macon, GA during the Civil War.  From that area you went into a larger area that had pottery and other pieces of art on the walls.  I was amazed at how large the place was because it doesn’t appear to be that large from the outside.  I walked down the stairs and checked out the gift shop area before I left.  I found a bumper sticker and purchased it.

As I was getting ready to leave, I asked the women where a good place would be to have lunch.  She mentioned a couple of places but then said that I would probably like Molly’s on Cherry Street and gave me directions.  Molly’s on Cherry Street was a simple little place on the corner that does new specials every day.  I had the gumbo-like soup that the gal mentioned was the soup of the day.  She said it was very hearty and I will admit that it was.  I would have called it more a stew than a soup.  I had a chicken salad sandwich on a croissant with it.  This was a hearty sandwich too.  I had a mud brownie with a bit of ice-cream for dessert.  But more than the food or the place itself; it was one of those places were you were made to feel welcomed and at home.  The server and the host made you feel like part of the family and they quite often were hugging regular people as they came in through the door.  This was a very local place and one filled with all kinds of warmth.  Next with a happy tummy, I found myself on my way driving to Atlanta, GA.

DAY 112- Civil Rights and a Confederate Capital…

Early the next morning I went to downtown Montgomery to the Rosa Parks Museum that is run by Troy University.  Rosa Park has been referred to as the Mother of the Civil Rights Movement.  It was a wonderful experience visiting the museum.  I started in a room the showed a film of Montgomery now and then it showed how the city was prior to the arrest of Rosa Parks.  There were local citizens of the community that spoke on film of their memories of how it was with the Jim Crowe Laws in effect.  The film showed photos of signs of white only and black only.  Next, the doors opened up into a room where there was a old bus in the middle of it.  It was like a step into the past.  Through the windows of the bus played out the scene of Rosa Parks’ arrest.  Rosa was firm but passive during the whole event.  She maintained her dignity too.  It was fascinating to watch.

Photo- Just inside of the Rosa Parks Museum in Montgomery, AL.

Next, a set of church doors opened and I learned about what happened within the community after that.  It was very interesting to learn about the influence that Rosa Parks had on Martin Luther King too.  It was also amazing the level of planning and community involvement that it took to keep the boycott going.  There was a great deal of organizing that went into the carpooling that managed to get people to their jobs over the 13 month boycott.

Photo- The home Martin Luther King lived in Montgomery, AL
which is now a museum and was closed for the day.

Next, I found I had to laugh a bit and found it rather ironic that I ended up following a Montgomery City Bus on the way to Martin Luther King Jr’s house.  The home had been turned into a museum but had been bombed when the Kings lived there.  Well, the MLK House was closed.  Darn it!  So I just ended up driving by and taking a photo.

Photo- The front of the Alabama State Capital.

Then, I parked my car a few blocks away in front of the Alabama State Capital which happened to be the same Capital that was used by the Confederates as a base for government.  I really found it interesting that all of this history was within a few blocks.  I put money in the parking meter and then walked up the front steps of the Capital.  Meanwhile, a group of elegantly clad high school kids were coming down.  It looked like a choir with the boys in suits and the girls in long blue taffeta skirts.  I felt a bit under dressed and wondered if something special was going on in the Capital.

Photo- The foyer area just inside the front door of the Alabama State Capital.

The state capital of Alabama is like a mini replica of our nation’s capital.  It’s white with the columns down the front and a dome up top.  It’s placed on a hill that I found out was called “Goat’s Hill” which accounts for the gift shop’s name in the basement.  I took a picture of the outside.  They have a statue in the front that’s Mr. Confederate President himself, Mr. Jefferson Davis.  I’m always fascinated that they like to brag about their confederate history here in the south.  I would’ve been embarrassed to be a part of this but here they almost brag about it; which makes it even more interesting that a few blocks away is a museum dedicated to the mother of civil rights.  The south is such a quandary.

Photos- Of the rotunda of the Alabama State Capital.

I walk into the front door of the capital expecting security like most state capitals with roped off areas, a scanner and a gate that I would walk through; after I empty my pockets of change and keys.  Nope!  There’s a large Christmas tree in a foyer with stairs wrapping up on each side as I walk in.  Off to one side and back, there’s a security guard sitting at a table with an older lady at an information table.  There’s a table and detection gate way back and off to the side.  I say hi and the guard asks to check my purse and then after a bit has me walk through the gate.  It was a very laid back type of thing.  I was really surprised. 

I got a map of the capital from the lady and she asked where I was from.  She was rather proud that someone as far away as Utah wanted to see her state capital.  She asked me to sign the visitor’s book and welcomed me.  From there I just walked around on the main level which was mostly all white walls with elaborate molding.  Down the center hall, they must have had some event going on there were men in military outfits and dressed up people.  I walked around them; getting the eye from some state policeman with a wide brimmed flat hat.  I took out my camera, took pictures, and read signage about the building.   The state policeman is really keeping an eye on me and standing next to another man that other people are shaking his hand and wanting to talk with.  It turns out later that I was actually in the same room as the Alabama governor.  Their security is very laid back; it was mind boggling.

Photo- The first floor area, all very white.

I walked up to the next level where I could see in the dome area which was lovely but smaller than other capitals I have been in.  I was also amazed at how many doors were open and I could see Capital workers and statesman at work at their desks.  It was a very much open door policy.  In fact, there were only a couple of hallway areas that were roped off from visitors.  Otherwise it was a free for all. 

I walked down the back stairs to the gift shop which the information lady had recommended I visit.  There was another lax set of security guards by the back door with a table off to the side and the detection gate.  I walked by them saying hi and walked into the gift shop just across the hall from them.  Wow!  I will say that this was the nicest gift shop I have seen in any of the state capitals.  It was well presented and had a lot of items made in Alabama which I was amazed at the variety; from pottery to Alabama mud stained t-shirts to scented candles handmade tiled angel ornaments to cheese sticks (??) to candies.  I got a couple of postcards and could help but laugh about the Alabama mud stained t-shirts.

Next, I was fueled up and heading out of town heading east through Alabama back country towards Macon, GA.  I was about 30 miles out and it’s raining with dark clouds in the sky when the car radio announces a thunderstorm warning until 2pm and a tornado watch until 3pm.  It was strange because I haven’t had to worry about tornadoes for years since I moved away from Iowa and here I was driving on a back road in Alabama with a tornado watch.  I was almost out of the county that had this watch but it made me keep an eye on those dark clouds a little more closely and be aware of what shelter may be in the area as I drove along.

Photo- A Hillbilly Mall along a back road in Alabama?  Now that wasn't surprising!

It was pouring rain when I got to Macon, GA.  I managed to drive right to the hotel; only to find I had made the reservation for the next night.  Ooopps!  We got that rectified and I got settled in.  Then, I proceeded to try to locate a pizza place in the area but there was none; even though there was no shortage of restaurants nearby.  I finally gave up because driving in the area was near impossible with all the accidents.  They really don’t know how to drive in Macon when it rains.  I found a Sammy’s BBQ place about a block from my hotel and went in.

It was a rustic little BBQ place where a majority of the clientele was local southern middle class whites.  I seemed to fit right in except for having no accent.  I ordered a half slab of ribs with coleslaw and fries.  The ribs came hidden under the fries and a piece of garlic bread.  There were 4 different sauces to choose from on the table; I went with sweet and spicy.  It was good stuff!